It's much faster to spin wool because the fibres are not tidied up before you begin spinning. I also find that woollen spun yarns need a lot of work to be held in place to create even floats, whereas worsted spun yarns naturally feed through my hands and create an even tension almost by themselves. Thank you so much Katie. You may be wondering by now if one is better than the other. Theres also Wuthering Heights Tom Hardy, just saying. This was a grat posting. My question is how does one know whether a Yarn is worsted or woolen spun if one is not sophisticated enough to know just by looking? If you can only achieve one, though, choose accurate stitch gauge. Understand that some designers are buried in messages. popular colorways Coal 12 stashed 19 projects Fig 4 projects 4 projects 3 stashed 3 projects 50 projects Snowbound 7 stashed 16 projects The packing-in of the fiber as worsted yarn is made allows the fibers to protect each other for longer wear and less pilling. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Performance". Prepare to fiddle with needle sizes and maybe make a math adjustment or two if your chosen yarn doesnt quite match the gauge in the pattern. October 2015 The Empire (on the right) is less consistent, and looks a little puffier. It had a lacy yoke, short sleeves, and a bit of swing at the hem. Great article! But once knitted and blocked, a further bloom will take place, and the resulting fabric will be light and lush; cozy and insulating. the fiber(s) used. Great article! The indie Dyer might know how their base is spun if one is buying direct but maybe a LYS owner might not. June 2020 Chances are, from the end of your batt the fibres are being fed in to the yarn along the direction of the yarn, and not at 90 degrees. You can read more about the ranges of WPI for each yarn weight on the Craft Yarn Councils website. Its like choosing between the cleaned-up, slicked-back Tom Hardy in Legend or the grungy Tom Hardy in Mad Max: Fury Road. August 2016 Worsted spun is smooth, while woolen spun is a little more rustic. In the pictures, the woollen spun samples all seem bigger that the worsted spun. August 2017 Everyone already said what I wanted to, so Ill just add that Tom Hardy is my Happy Place, no matter how hes spun. ). Woolen and Worsted yarns. This Targhee-Columbia wool blend comes from Wyoming sheep, and the fiber is fleece-dyed (dyed before spinning), which is made visible in Shelters thirty-two heathered colorways, especially the darker ones with lighter hues intermixed. One of the most basic attributes of a yarn is woolen or worsted spun. Woolen drafted yarn gives a texture and an overall softness and visual motion to all the stitches, something I like, but occasionally I find some small stitch repeat patterns get lost with woolen yarns. It's then spun with the twist entering the drafting zone in a long draw technique. Woolen spun yarns will bloom more after washing and are lighter and airier. Non Wool Club Yours has been my favorite series to date Im learning so much and feel like I can make better choices! It's then spun with the twist entering the drafting zone in a long draw technique. The worsted process means mixing all short hairs out of fabric. The twist brings air with it, and the surface isnt controlled by smoothing as it hits the fiber. https://garmentmerchendising.com/category/fiber/. Todays topic is woolen and worsted drafted yarns. However, because commercial spinning techniques necessarily developed out of hand spinning techniques, the terms described here may also be familiar to our hand spinning friends or applicable to those interested in handspinning. December 2021 What you do need is to know what youre doing if you plan to change things up. The weight makes it great for outerwear, and the texture and structure allow for beautiful felted work. Thank you for this insightful article. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. Theyre the same weight, but theyre not made the same way. The problem is that theyre not as durable as multi-ply yarn. Thanks for the clear and concise approach I get it now! When it comes to choosing between a woolen-spun yarn and a worsted-spun yarn, there really is no right or wrong answer. Analytical cookies are used to understand how visitors interact with the website. Color. Thanks for clearing up my confusion over what I scored at the thrift shop today and helping provide some direction on what project might be right for it. Folks wait their turn to enter the booth and shop in a controlled way. January 2017 The fibers in a worsted spun yarn are combed to be parallel and uniform before spinning whereas the fiber for woolen-spun yarns are more casually arranged. This has just lit a light bulb in my head. Worsted wool is smoother than woolen, takes shine more easily, does not sag, holds a crease well, is lighter and less bulky, and wears longer than woolen. When spinning the fiber the long draw or medium draw technique is used to allow the fiber to wrap upon itself while . Cheers and Thanks. Thank you! If you cant, try searching the designs hashtag on Instagram. Thank you so much! The unique 12-ply construction means that garments drape beautifully and afghans and warm weather accessories have a cushiony soft bounce. That means theyre good for colorwork and lace projects where you really want your stitches to pop. Weaving. Any suggestions? PHONE: Toll Free 1-800-483-8749 A woolen yarns loose, lofty structure traps and holds air, making it warm and light, but the air between the fibers allows them to abrade quicker. So well illustrated and explained. June 2022 Finally I understand I sorta knew but didnt quite fit it into certain yarns I was knitting on, I always wondered . But it made a noticeable difference to the feel of the swatch in my hand. January 2022 God Bless. On Ravelry, you can go to the (Ravelry link) Projects tab on the pattern page to see other versions of the hat knit by other people. At the roping stage, the fibers are of irregular lengths, jumbled and nestled together in every which way. I dont believe a label gives this info. Any amount of twist, be it a lot or a little, is essential for creating knittable yarn. Yarns with multiple strands of fiber plied together are very sturdy. So much yarn, so many choices the Lust Factor will now have a bit more knowledge backing it up! When I unplied the yarn and looked at individual strands, I could see a difference and a dead giveaway. As such, for our woolen-spun yarns, the strands of roping are simply loaded on a spinning frame, where they are concurrently drafted, twisted, and wound onto bobbins to become singles for plying. They are both delightful, yet different. Thedoffer, a large cylinder at the delivery end of the carder, then relays the batt into acondenser, which splits the batt into several thin, untwisted strands calledropingorslivers(sly-vers). Thanks for the good explanation. But not always. 2.22 yds UK Sherry 100% Spun Silk Fabric Luxury Suiting 9 oz Apricot 80" BTP . Worsted Spun vs. Woolen Spun. Because woolen-spun yarns retain lots of air pockets during the production process, they knit up into very insulating and warm garments. If you compare those to the recommended yarns details, youll have a better sense of whether the substitution will work. The Classic British Wool yarn line is available in four thicknesses and fifteen heathered colorways. Because there is less air trapped in the spun fibers, the resulting yarn is dense, smooth and resistant to abrasion. Worsted spun yarn includes individual fibers that are facing in many directions, whereas woolen spun has all of the fibers facing in the same direction before the yarn is spun and they remain much more parallel in the final spun singles. Thank you. January 2018 Sometimes, those individual strings are then twisted together to form a stronger, denser yarn. Native Twist is available in twenty-nine bold, earthy, and jewel-toned solid colorways. February 2017 April 2019 Hours: Mon-Fri from 9am-4pm MT Updated July 1, 2020. As with our woolen-spun yarns, fiber prepared for worsted-spun yarn is first scoured and then carded. Thank for for such a coherent explanation (and the pretty swatches really help too)! In the videos below, I'm using hand carded alpaca. Ive put off learning more about the structure and the why and have just let myself be lead around MLYS making choices that just add to the stash but may not be right for the intended project. Semi worsted will give you more fluff to . The carder opens up the fiber and blends it evenly, resulting in a thin cloud- or web-like sheet commonly known as abatt. You can see the stitches in the worsted swatches just show up. Dogs Shop Talk All Rights Reserved. lovely wool yarn selection from Jagger Spun. This action will also remove this member from your connections and send a report to the site admin. In side-by-side comparison of worsted and woolen yarns with the same fiber and yarn structure, the worsted yarn is more durable, less warm, and heavier than a woolen yarn. You are the Rachel Maddow of yarn, delving in at a granular level, exploring every detail, and explaining it all with an engaging writing style drenched in clarity. If its too tight (that is, more stitches per inch than it should have), try going up a needle size. I have been knitting for awhile and have yet to use the yarn recommended by a designer for various reasons. Worsted-style spinning, unlike woolen-style, does not allow twist to enter the fiber during drafting. That makes them a great choice for items that are going to get a lot of wear, like socks and sweaters. Our BWC Wisconsin Woolen Spun yarns are two-ply in both the fingering and worsted weight and are available in 100 gram skeins. June 2019 When you touch worsted yarn, it tends to feel heavier and very even, and it will be shiny if the fibers in the yarn are inclined that way. Thanks! The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics". The Empire is more uneven looking, a little airier as well as fuzzy. So the semi-worsted spinning gets you more yardage since the yarn is less . Thank you Jagger Spun for the information! Use top to spin semi worsted. Wuthering Heights Tom Hardy is the yarn that ran out when you were an inch from the finish. It might be worth sacrificing a bit of cable definition to get a lighter, cozier feeling sweater. Understanding helps tremendously and the side by side swatches were terrific. As an example, aran weight worsted spun wool is going to be heavier than aran weight woolen spun wool, so there will be fewer yards per 100 grams of the worsted spun wool . Great information! Yeah, were talking that level of soft. That pushes us in to the worsted end of the spectrum. Woolen yarn consists of fibers of varying length that are carded so the fibers are not parallel. This was a great post. Wonderful study! It resulted in a hat that was light as a cloud but still structurally sound and very warm. This information is just wrong as to pilling. Extremely helpful! During the Middle Ages, common agricultural practices were in flux because new breeds of sheep were being . November 2013 The Windham is more uniform and sleek looking even with the inherent visual softness of the Merino fiber. That doesnt happen when fiber is being compressed and smoothed while it becomes a worsted drafted yarn; that happens when the twist limbos into the fiber. Think in terms of shopping at a fiber show. March 2018 Worsted weight yarn is a 10 ply yarn. The best article ever on this subject. Worsted ( or ) is a high-quality type of wool yarn, the fabric made from this yarn, and a yarn weight category. The distinctions between these has been a mystery to me until now. See, what I didnt understand at the time was the fine art of yarn substitution. July 2017 The name derives from Worstead, a village in the English county of . Generally, the higher the ply number the thicker the yarn. This video of a Navajo Weaver has long been a favourite of mine. Bees The combing process removed all the shorter length hairs, leaving behind fibres of the same length, free from tangles. In the production of Quarry, which was inspired by unspun yarns, we skip the process of spinning the individual plies of yarn and instead nestle together three strands of roping drawn out to the right thickness, before gently twisting those strands together in a mock twist. This exciting variety can be attributed to similarly multiple factors such as individual spinning style and preference, fleece and fiber characteristics, or even environmental considerations like humidity levels. SpoinnersAdvent The yarn is spun using the woolen process. The same process squeezes out the air making it not as warm. I think Ill need to read it over a few times to really get it, because there is so much information. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. For many projects, it wont make much of a difference if youre switching yarn construction. But its so difficult to choose between the two Tom Hardys. . The difference between these two is not as clear at first glance. This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. This is a new day for me. January 2021 February 2020 That little strand of silk-mohair yarn is important, because the mohair fibers catch on each other and lend stability to the fabric. . Another essential characteristic of woolen-spun yarns, according to Respect the Spindle by Abby Franquemont, is that twist is allowed to play an active role in drafting the fiber drafting refers to when the fiber is pulled slightly to open up and lengthen the fiber structure before being twisted. Maybe youre trying to use up some of your stash. If you divide the length of the yarn by the weight, you get a ratio. However, there are differences between worsted weight yarns and woolen yarns as well. Raw, dirty & weedy alpaca is what I'm practicing this woolen technique I am learning, from rolags. Your book will be one of the few in my library, as I want those that provide me the knowledge to choose and knit wisely. Both woolen and worsted spinning methods make beautiful yarns. Another very important factor is the ply. Airy and soft, but fragile (because of the shorter staple and looser twist?). It seems that I am and have produced a woollen yarn. Work your swatch until the swatch is about 4 long, and then bind off. This means that they'll have very clear stitch definition, as opposed to woollen spun yarns which have a softer stitch definition. This causes the yarn to be light, airy with small fiber ends poking out. Does it make that much difference to your gauge? How about giving us more names of worsted and woolen yarns currently available? If you end up having to make a major substitution, remember that plant fibers tend to be heavier than animal fibers. Spin: Worsted or Woolen How a yarn is spun affects a yarn's weight and crimp. I hope this will help you skip some of the hiccups! Developed and spun in Springvale Maine, we are proud to present the Jagger Spun Collection. This post of part of my Spinning with a Purpose series, sharing swatches I've created for a. The project aims to restore the hydropower installation to produce clean energy from the waterway that runs under the mill. www.solitudewool.com, Content: 100% wool Put-Up: 150 yd [137m]/4 oz [113 g] Construction: Singles Recommended Gauge: 12 sts and 16 rows = 4 (10 cm) on size 11 (8 mm) needles, The bulky single-ply Native Twist is a 100% wool, soft-spun singles and is Imperials most popular yarn. I'm glad it was helpful to you! November 2019 Thanks. March 2020 Also softer than woolen yarn after carded. January 2016 October 2014 This yarn delivers on every account. Single-ply yarns are, to put it mildly, gloriously soft. Wool fabrics can be classified by their production technology the worsted and woolen one. - From the online magazine Knitter's Review, by Clara Parkes. The woolen singles were a little thicker and less consistent, so this isn't surprising. The difference between worsted-spun and woolen-spun yarns lies in how the fiber is handled before the actual spinning. The simple, pure honesty of her yarns, paired with a buttery softness and delicate texture, enchanted me. Getting a yarn thats labeled with the same weight as the previous yarn is only part of the challenge, though. As modern spinners we can now get some much smaller and lighter combs, but combing is still a real physical workout. Try yarnsub.com or ask LYS staff. Worsted style spinning got me 183 yds from 4 oz. Woollen spun woven fabrics are thicker and heavier and used mostly for outerwear. Jillian Moreno spins, knits and weaves just so she can touch all of the fibers. The yarn is less hairy than worsted yarns. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. Because the yarn is smoother than woolen yarn, it will be less itchy when worn next to the skin, provided the fibers are not too coarse for comfort. A drumcarder can also be used. Well-twisted yarn spun of long-staple wool which has been combed to lay the fibers parallel, used for carpets, cloth, hosiery, gloves, and the like. If the ratios are close, youre more likely to have a good match for substitution. If Im knitting a Fair Isle sweater and want it to be warm and have colors that are little blurred at the edges to blend well with each other. I have just started spinning using a Navajo type spindle and I was unsure that I was l on the right lines. The fiber is compressed and smoothed, and air is squeezed out as the twist is applied to the fiber. Worsted noun. Spun worsted style, 2 ply, ~12 wpi, 183 yds/4 oz. May 2019 Ive wondered lately why some yarn I loved in my LYS seemed perfect, but when swatched, especially in garter stitch, looked so shiny, something I didnt want. For example, if they just list an email address for pattern inquiries, dont message them on every social media platform where you can find them, too. As you might have guessed, most worsted-spun yarns are not ideal for felting (fibers which are all perfectly aligned are difficult to felt! September 2016 Very clear explanation of a new topic to me. 28 minutes. Thanks. This approach makes for a lofty, lightweight yarn that traps warmth. I once had it explained very simply: Woolen spun yarns are like bedhair in the morning - going every which way, and worsted spun are like hair after it's been combed. Those air pockets, combined with the jumbled state of the fibers, also make woolen-spun yarns amazingly adaptable to a wide range of needle sizes and gauges. Performance cookies are used to understand and analyze the key performance indexes of the website which helps in delivering a better user experience for the visitors. October 2020 Wrap your yarn firmly, but not tightly, around the item for at least a few inches, and then set it down next to the ruler. Semi-woolen yarn is spun woolen-style, using fibers prepared in a parallel arrangement. Worsted spun yarns are smoother and have better stitch definition to make your cables and textured stitches pop. . Brilliant exposition, Katie! Theyre lofty yarns, so they make lightweight, absorbent fabrics, Elsa Hallowell says, which feel cooler when its warm and very cozy when its cold. www.wool-clothing.com, Content: 100% pure virgin wool Put-Up: 170yd [155 m]/1 3/4 oz [50 g] Construction: 2-ply Care: Handwash gently in lukewarm water Recommended Gauge: 24 sts = 4 (10cm) on sizes 35 (3.253.75mm) needles, Flywheel is a sportweight version of Harrisvilles well-loved Watershed. Please refer to Blacker Yarns blog for an explanation: https://www.thenaturalfibre.co.uk/blog/woollen-and-worsted-spun-yarns-thoughts-wovember#:~:text=A%20woollen%20spun%20yarn%20will,high%20proportion%20of%20short%20fibre. I just started stranded colorwork and this with your swatches is a good resource. Spinningwithapurpose Check out our worsted woolen spun yarn selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops. Ill never look at yarn the same way again! These cookies track visitors across websites and collect information to provide customized ads. I have been knitting for almost 50 years and have never understood what worsted yarn was all about. Please confirm you want to block this member. Examples of Woolen Spun:Cascade Eco+ Merino DKCascade BFL, Examples of Worsted Spun (not a complete list):Malabrgio RiosCascade 220 Superwash. April 2015 Depending on their knowledge of spinning and yarns, it gets a bit tricky to articulate sometimes. Want a refresher on the difference between worsted-spun and woolen spun yarns? It isn't just a question of being one or the other though, there is a continuum of spinning structures with true worsted on one end, true woolen on the far opposite and lots of semi-worsted and semi-woolen yarns in between.
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