Two things to keep in mind as you do that. Also if I give it a issue. Confirm the placement of all wiring, ensure that the WBO2 sensor is positioned properly, etc. Then you can take a close look at the IAC and see if it is opening. Bolt on 4150 Flange Carburetor Replacement. To get it to idle the tps is at 2-3-4% even with linkage disconnected and a return spring installed. If i adjust the throttle plate screw in to bring IAC in to proper range say around 7 the engine is running around 2000 rpm. And thanks again for taking your time to answer these questions. Since a key cycle resets it to 0 and out to 30 or wherever I have an entire article on choosing between Sniper and Terminator X throttle body solutions and while Sniper is still a sound choice for some applications, Terminator X (with transmission control) is hands-down the way to go for those who need that. That is not something I'd ignore. If you complete the process and find that the IAC is less than 2% at idle, repeat the process and use the set screw to make the RPM about 60 RPM below the target. )Since this isn't a consistent issue with all Snipers that tells me that different IAC settings tend to make the whistle. This page was generated at 12:26 AM. My car will not idle right until it gets to around 130 -140 degrees. This is actually more troubling than the sound you originally described. that my Air/Fuel ration was 15:1 and I believe the target is 13.5:1. Have a look--I think this is going to allow you to fix your idle problem. All EFI systems need a large fuel filter to trap dirt and yet not reduce volume. Holley Idle Air Control Motor Idle Air Control Motor Fits the Following Applications: Sniper EFI 90 mm, 92 mm, 102 mm Throttle Bodies Digital Pro-Jection Systems Avenger 4-bbl TBI Commander 950 Terminator TBI If you look down and your TPS is 2% then either your throttle is stuck slightly open (which itself will cause the idle-up) or RFI riding on the TPS signal has caused the ECU to see the throttle as open and, as a result, open the IAC to the hold position. and go to restart warm, it catches starts for a flick of a second, drops to a stall, or sometimes will catch its self and start. Why is this? But I can tell you that for most people who try this it introduces so much RFI onto the Sniper that it never works right. Hi Chris I didn't get any traction on Holley.com Even though the Sniper's fuel map is programmed to provide the correct amount of fuel via injectors spraying at 60 PSI, if the pressure is jacked up to 90 PSI the wideband sees that you are rich and faster than you can even detect it audibly lowers the duty cycle to inject the correct amount of fuel. I, too, wish you'd bought your Sniper from us! It has gotten a little better after I drove it for three hours today.I want to save the Kik because if I get this working good then I would like to add A C and use the kick for it.Motor is Mopar 360 with mild cam and automatic. Sometimes an engine can produce enough vacuum to pull the secondaries open slightly. It starts cold fine, its just when its hot. Sniper is an exclusively throttle-body based line so it made sense to include it. The headache is the Acceleration Enrichment. You have to remove all hoses in order to debug the problem. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. Stupid question, but where do I see if it's entering Learn mode? I know its not flooded because I can pour a little gas in the throttle body and play with the accelerator and it will start and run fine. What should I be looking at to calm this down? Some suggestions: i did have the same problem.try lengthening the lever of the throttle.meaning the length from the center of the throttle to the point where you attach your cable or your rod from the peddle. Intake has been on and off 3 times no change. You'll be amazed at how much of this just "goes away" when you drive it enough. Hey Chris, I installed a Holley sniper on a small block 400, first start was great! The throttle blade adjustment is at 2-6% at hot idle, and with warm engine 185F. Maybe give it a half-turn before you start it and then start and tweak. It is probably that your RPM above the maximum point at which ramp-down can occur. You can re-enable this after you have completed this idle speed adjustment process. If I try and get the 2-10% i get all the way up to 1200 rpm. Yes, having an accurate TPS is very important at idle. is the fuel pressure. Repeat until that stumble goes away, and then try a bit more throttle. After a stall the car will restart but will be in a high idle. I will turn it up some. Initial Baseline Idle Speed Screw Setting, http://forums.holley.com/showthread.neral-IAC-Info, http://documents.holley.com/199r11031r.pdf, https://forums.holley.com/showthread-Idle-Solution, If this is your first visit, be sure to But he kept having problems so eventually he did a complete check and then he found the problem. It won't take much! (Do this while you are cranking.) Thanks in advance for any advice. close to idle with the IAC between 2% & 12%. I would only play with this if you are finding that the other adjustments I suggested aren't working. It is how the engineers allow you to clear a flood condition when you detect it. The small rubber plug had a leak. Even 50 RPM can make a difference in how much impact the transition to Drive has on the idling engine's ability to stay at a fixed RPM.I would not recommend it in this situation but anytime a "kick" in idle speed is desired that is easily done by setting the kick value in Tuning > Advanced > Adv. That is what I really respect about Holley. I have probably 200 - 300 miles on this engine and it has always done this. Thanks. You can disable the idle spark control at the locations below. It's a Chevy 350 bored .030" over it has a cam in it what I was told is the cam has the firing order swapped. Chris I am having a little different idle problem I did your -40 thing and that help with high idle but my problem is it idles fine until I drop it in gear and it stumbles a couple times catches up and then idles fine again. If you have a bellcrank in your throttle linkage, ensure that the linkage is not engaging the bellcrank at an angle greater than 45 degrees at either end of the throw. My sniper is doing two thingsFirst issue, the idle is set at 800 and will idle fine, then There is a glitch in the system. After only running for about 15 minutes or so the system starts to fail stalling the motor. Can the return line be an issue?So far this sounds like an ideal setup.>I have had 2 faulty gpa-4 255 walbro pumps go bad. Should the iac% fluctuate? WIthout knowing quite a bit more it will be more than challenging for you to identify the problem and solve it.Fortunately, Holley provides their amazing Sniper Software. But as you see from the recent revision I did above you seem to be having a fixable issue. I've read that a spacer with 4 individual holes will solve this, but after I installed the progressive linkage the noise went away!! Otherwise, if removing the air cleaner eliminates the whistle then try to use a thicker gasket or try lightly greasing the gasket. Therefore The iac will always be at 10% now, correct? And your question is very perceptive: You must first know whether the bog is a lean or a rich condition before you can make the correct adjustments. 680-700.I can't find any reason other than it looses where it is in the firmware with So I have been doing the slow take offs and thinking that it would learn its way out. But I think it is safe to say that you are now at a point were some manual tuning is a good idea. Seems like its too slow to grab idle when ac kicks on. Copyright 2017 Cyberspace Automotive Performance, Inc. All Rights Reserved. The fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper is fairly simple and not prone to failure, as far as I know. Once you have done this the challenge is to create a datalog that includes the ":snap" you describe. Yes it is controlling the timing and I had issues at first and it controlled the idle just fine. Both Sniper and trans controller grounds were direct to the battery ground, as they should be. Kind of cuts into forum time. The IAC should display a 2-8% to bring the idle up to the actual target. While confirming, in the handheld ensure that the Reference Angle is set to 57.5 and that the Inductive Delay is set to 100. I very pleased with the performance, it is a huge improvement from the 800CFM carb I had on this motor. If your TPS has snuck up to 2% then your IAC will be at the hold position, which by default is 30%. That is a good thing.I don't have a specific target RPM but always encourage automatic transmission users to bias the idle just a tiny bit higher than what you might otherwise. I would gladly engage with you to solve this but ultimately you are going to need to go through whomever you purchased the system if a warranty return is in order. I can get it to fire up on the Honestly, I've never seen this happen but if the butterflies were misaligned on the shafts it could allow too much air to enter. I have seen a couple of videos on you tube of the same issue but they don't seem to have found the cure.I hope it is not a computer problem as I have already replaced the entire system because of another problem. This item: Holley - 543-105 EFI Idle Air Control Motor , Black $71.72 Holley Sniper EFI 870001 Throttle Position Sensor $34.60 Holley 860004-1 92MM Sniper Throttle BDY $223.93 Customers who viewed this item also viewed Page 1 of 1 Start over Holley EFI Idle Air Control (Iac) Valve Motor 30 13 offers from $79.56 Cycled the ignition off. Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? It is simply for the benefit of the user. First thing I would check My problem with the sniper is the whistling and hard throttle pedal, I have a 700r tranny with a kick down cable. Chris thank you for the info. If your RPM is 2000, your TPS is 0, and your IAC is not closing, then there is some problem. It then idles up from 750 to 1100. Hello Then it will ramp down to 1200 but will not return to idle. The Sniper even has a feature that allows it to use the idle timing to control the idle speed. View Holley Sniper EFI Self-Tuning Kit - Shiny Finish. Well, it turns out that with the current firmware this throws the IAC control into a bit of confusion. And since they really had an insanely-tight monetary and real estate budget in the Sniper EFI System, it is unlikely that the added something that wasn't absolutely necessary--and then forgot to use it..And you are spot on about the little Earl's gauge with optional -6 AN port. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. The Sniper EFI system looks at the closed-loop fuel compensation required to reach your target AFR. Glad to hear that you have timing control enabled, Gary. Enjoy! All of the wiring exits below the rear fuel injector cover, for a completely stealth installation. The problem was RF interferance . check out the. Tried that and it didn't work? We can not hit it at all, we hit the pedal abruptly, the engine gives a lot of excess fuel, the AFR gets super poor at first, the car stops, then the AFR gets super rich and the car runs until it cleans up. The noise changes sound with the throttle position. I did check for the lightning under the hood but all was well. Your mechanical advance will naturally change the timing a bit but it should be fairly close. They always responded to my questions with guidance that helped me choose the right system for me. And increasing your idle via the idle screw was also a good idea, because that will lower your amount of IAC that is necessary to keep your engine at the target idle speed. You'll have to go back and forth a couple of times to get it just right. Remove the tape from the IAC breather hole and restart the engine. Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. Let me be perfectly clear: If your engine will not drop below 1350 RPM with the idle speed screw turned all the way out then you have an air leak. I am having an issue with the IAC on the Sniper. Definitely not 90. If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. your IAC is at zero. (I'm running from a fuel cell on the garage floor 10 feet away with lines in plain sight and do see fuel coming from the return at a decent flow. I keep doing that with the same result. Do you have any clue? I also raised idle at Park a bit with the idle screw. Across the board, all of our customers say how impressed they were that it started and ran right out of the box just by following the simple installation instructions. :-). A few, however, get tangled up getting the idle control working just the way they want. If the TPS is 1% or below then the ECU is in control--2% or greater and the ECU thinks you've got it under control. Since the load is more of a wave that increases the most initially and then decreases again, the ECU is doing really well to get the idle under control in only two or three over/under shots as you describe.You don't mention if you have your Sniper ECU controlling timing. I recently install a sniper efi. That way you can get into that part of the table that needs tuning, and you can watch your learn numbers grow. Last night I tried setting the IAC and had the same problems after it's warmed up. This may sound crazy but I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you don't have an idle issue--you have a timing issue. I have now determined with the TPS the noise correlates with the opening of the secondary butterflies. Throttle Tip-In tuning can be a bit of a challenge but I'm confident you can get this resolved, Mike.Let me start by saying that unless you've really done a lot of driving on the system in some useful learning situations then I would set this issue aside and not even think about it. One of the great features of Holley's Sniper is the ability to set your air/fuel ratio (AFR) where you want it. We've already tried adjusting the Acceleration Enrichment chart in all ways, going up and down, RoC Blanking, everything, it has no effect. Nice to meet you. Hi Chris thanks in advance for any tips. We're never going to fill up your email box with nonsense. Next, reach down into the secondaries and push the butterflies closed. Thanks for any info./insight you can provide, Mark. It could be a couple of things. That's what you're seeing. EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. It could be, but that seems unlikely.Instead, you need to look at the basics. Get that thing installed and you're going to know a whole lot more about what's going on. You are aware of the idle-up problem. Switch power to the Sniper on and crank the engine. Not to bandstand here but this is the point when where you bought your system is so important. I never had a problem with this. I was looking at a data log from my truck earlier this week and noted that at idle my IAC was zero.
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